Country Egg, City Egg

Eggs are not just for breakfast any more, at least not for those who make good use of this inspired little cookbook by two popular Bay Area chefs.

Most of us are familiar with scrambled and poached versions of this traditional foodstuff, but who has tried eggs with caviar or black truffles? Or why not a braised chard a la polonaise for dinner, or souffle fritters for dessert?

"Eggs are the ultimate and purest fast food on the planet, and when we peruse the refrigerator and discover a dozen eggs, how rich we are!" proclaim the authors. 

Their cookbook features 78 recipes, created for and inspired by the brunch menu at San Francisco's Zuni Cafe. Half of the selection are "country-style" recipes, straightforward and somewhat rustic: simple omelets, fried eggs, egg croquettes and salads. The rest are more metropolitan in style and ingredients: chicken livers and red wine omelet, croque-madame, and custards.

The introductory chapter includes instructions and advice for selecting eggs, rolling an omelet, scrambling eggs, poaching, steaming and seasoning. Illustrated with Rollin McGrail's whimsical hens, this a pleasant volume that does eggs right, over easy.

Recipes included:

Apricot Jam Omelet
Chorizo Scrambled Eggs
Dandelion Salad w/ a Poached Egg
Eggs in Duck Fat
Homemade Mayonnaise
Onion and Cider Omelet
Watercress Egg Salsa
Piperade
Gratineed Deviled Eggs
Potato Egg Torta
Balsamic Fried Eggs
Louis Dressing
Ale and Cheddar Omelet
Oeufs a la Coque
Asparagus Egg Gratin
French Toast
Popovers
Tartar Sauce
Saffron Egg and Rice Cake
Vietnamese Egg Soup
Zuppa Alla Pavese
Sabayon